Shoe and method of making the same



Aug. 27, 1940. I ENGEL 2,212,516

SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Original Filed Spt. 8, 1936 MVBMTU/QpKM! as 4 Patented Aug. 27, 1940 i AND METHOD OF MAKING THE" SAME .1 KarlEngel, S warnpscott Mjass assignor to United Shoe MachineryCjorporation,Borough of Flemington, N. J., a corporation of New Jersey Originalapplication September 8, 1936, Serial No. 99,691. Divided and thisapplication November s, 1939, Serial No. 303,445

4 Claims. (oi, 12-142 ,This invention relates to shoes and methods ofmaking the same. l It is an, object'of the present invention to applythe shoe bottoming principles set forth in my co-pending applicationSerial No. 99,691, filed September 8, 1936 to the manufacture of a shoethe upper of which has the general characteristics of a Blucher typeshoe. This application is a division of my application above referredto.

With the above object inview, the invention in one aspect thereof and asdisclosed herein comprises a method of making shoes which'consists inproviding an upper having top and bottom openings both of which extendsubstantially the full length of the upper, providing a tongue and a toestiffener, arranging the tongue to extend from the interior of the upperat a point adjacent to the bottom margin of the upper at its toe endheightwise of the upper to its top margin, and then generally lengthwiseof the shoe toward its heel end, securing the tongue to the top marginof the upper, positioning the toe stiffener between the tongue and theinner surface of the toe end of the upper, turning the bottom margin ofthe upper inwardly and securing said margin to a sole.

The invention also includes a shoe which may be produced by the abovemethod and is characterized by a seam whereby the bottom margin of thestiffener is stitched to the bottom margin of the tongue to hold itagainst displacement.

The invention will now be described with reference to the accompanyingdrawing and pointed out in the appended claims.

In the drawing,

Fig. 1 is a plan view of a shoe embodying the features of the presentinvention;

. Fig. 2 is a section on the line l'I-II of Fig. 1; and

Fig. 3 is a perspective view of the shoe illustrated in Fig. l.Referring to Fig. 1 the illustrated shoe comprises a vamp H) the top ofwhich is open'substantially throughout its entire length and is providedwith a tongue [2 which is about the same length as the vamp. The vamp isstitched to a quarter M. which has the same general shape as the rearpart of a pump or slipper. The bottom margins of the vamp and thequarter are turned inwardly and stitched to a sole l6 which is hereillustrated as the tread sole of a singlesole shoe. The vamp and thequarter are so patterned that the general shape of the shoe is obtainedby turning the bottom margin of the upper inwardly and stitching it tothe margin of a sole in predetermined relation thereto. In theillustrated shoe, the inturned .margin is located relativelyto the soleby positioning it in a marginal recess-pro:

vided in the sole and locating the edge face of the upper against theinner wall of the recess. (See Fig. 2.)

The illustrated shoe is provided with a toe stiffener such, for example,as the stilfener l8.

has been found to be suitable for toe stiffeners of this type. Theentire margin of the toe stiffener I8 is skived in order to avoid theformation of objectionable irregularities in the upper along the marginof the stiffener.

In the manufacture of the illustrated shoe, the toe stiffener I8 issecured to the bottom margin of the tongue l2 by the seam 24 andthereafter the top seam 26 is formed in the vamp and as the stitching ofthe top seam progresses across the toe end of the vamp the tongue I2with the toe stiffener secured thereto is stitched to the toe end of thevamp. The toe end of the vamp then is turned upwardly away from the toestiifener and the toe stiffener in turn is turned downwardly from thetongue in order to permit both sides of the stiffener and the adjacentsurfaces of the tongue and the vamp to be coated with cement. After thecement has been applied, the parts are returned to their initialposition and bonded together in their relation to one anotherillustrated in Fig. '2. The bottom margin of the upper is then turnedinwardly and positioned in the marginal channel in the sole IS withitsedge face against the inner wall of the channel and secured theretoby'a sewn seam 28.

Having thus described my invention, what I' claim as new and desire tosecure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. That method of making shoes which comprises forming an upper with topand bottom openings extending substantially the fulllength of the upper,arranging a tongue to extend from the interior of the shoe bottom at itstoe end heightwise of the upper to the top of the toe end of the upperand then generally lengthwise of the upper toward its heel end, securingthe tongue to the top margin of the toe end of the upper, positioning atoe stifiener between the tongue and the inner surface of the toe end ofthe upper, turning the bottom margin of the upper inwardly, and securingsaid margin to a sole.

2. That method of making shoes which comprises forming an upper with topand bottom openings extending substantially the full length of theupper, providing a tongue of approximately one-half the length of theupper, securing a toe stiflener to the outer surface of the toe end ofthe tongue by a sewn seam extending through the adjacent margins of thetongue and the stiifener, arranging the tongue with the stiffenersecured to it to extend from the interior of the upper to the top of thetoe end of the upper, then generally lengthwise of the upper toward itsheel end, securing the tongue to the top margin of the toe end of theupper, turning the bottom margin of the upper inwardly, and securingsaid margin to a sole.

3. That method of making shoes which com prises forming an upper withtop and bottom openings extending substantially the full length of theupper, arranging a tongue to extend from the interior of the shoe bottomat its toe end heightwise of the upper to the top of the toe end of theupper and then generally lengthwise of the upper toward its heel end,securing the tongue to the top margin of the toe end of the upper,positioning a toe stiffener between the tongue and therinner surface ofthe toe end of the upper, turning the bottom margin of the upperinwardly, positioning the 'inturned margin of the upper in a marginalchannel in the upper surface of a sole, and stitching the inturnedmargin to the sole with its edge face abutting the inner wall of saidchannel.

4. A shoe having a tongue one end of which extends into the interior ofthe toe end of the upper, and a toe stiffener positioned between theinterior of the toe end of the upper and the adjacent surface of thetongue, the bottom margin of the stiffener being stitched to the bottommargin of the tongue.

KARL ENGEL.

